
Dorset
Episode 6 | 45m 16sVideo has Closed Captions
James and Paul Ainsworth explore Poole Harbour and Brownsea Island.
James and Michelin-starred chef Paul Ainsworth meet at Salterns Marina and jump aboard the luxurious Princess Yacht to explore Poole Harbour and Brownsea Island. Paul pays a visit to Dorset Vinney to learn about the famous Dorset Blue Vinny cheese and James stops at The Salt Pig to chat with the owner about his passion for local produce and meets his herd of Mangalitsa pigs.
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Dorset
Episode 6 | 45m 16sVideo has Closed Captions
James and Michelin-starred chef Paul Ainsworth meet at Salterns Marina and jump aboard the luxurious Princess Yacht to explore Poole Harbour and Brownsea Island. Paul pays a visit to Dorset Vinney to learn about the famous Dorset Blue Vinny cheese and James stops at The Salt Pig to chat with the owner about his passion for local produce and meets his herd of Mangalitsa pigs.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship[theme music] Here we go.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): I'm going on my most ambitious British adventure yet-- Yes!
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): --meeting some of the finest chefs in the world.
You've been sweating over, James.
Aw, poor James.
Aw.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Cooking my way from the far South.
Duck on a barbecue is just off the charts.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): --to the northernmost reaches of the land.
It's a magical experience.
JAMES MARTIN: You've got to do this.
It's amazing!
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And using some of the best produce you'll find anywhere.
FARMER: Come on, pigs.
Come on.
Come on.
GALTON BLACKISTON: Look, look at him.
How can you miss that mouth?
[laughs] JAMES MARTIN: And some of the places require a little bit more effort to get to.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): I'll be traveling by land, air, and sea.
TONY SINGH: Yeah, look.
Look, dolphins!
TONY SINGH: Dolphins.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): So join me as I explore the British Isles, from islands to highlands.
[gentle music] My journey continues along the UK's picturesque south coast.
And today, I'm exploring the glorious county of Dorset, starting in Sandbanks.
Joining me is my mate and award-winning chef, Paul Ainsworth.
So you're from around these parts then, Southampton area?
I am.
South coast.
I'm generalizing it saying south coast.
Yeah, you are generalizing.
It's a bit posh around here.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Known as the Jurassic Coast, the county of Dorset sits in the southwest.
Famous for its long sandy beaches and nature reserves, it's also packed with amazing produce from land and sea.
It's beautiful, isn't it?
JAMES MARTIN: It is quite nice, isn't it?
Anyway, I've got a treat for you because I know you like boats, don't you?
PAUL AINSWORTH: Yeah.
And the way you're going, winning all these awards, it won't be long before you get one.
So what I'm going to do is I'm going to take you on a trip on one.
PAUL AINSWORTH: Right, OK.
It's one of those boats.
It's a James Martin boat.
It's not a James Martin boat.
It's a James Bond boat.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): To be honest, I'm not even sure James Bond could afford one of these.
But because Paul is a good mate, I'm pushing the boat out.
Pardon the pun.
JAMES MARTIN: So this is guessing which one it is, isn't it really?
PAUL AINSWORTH: Yeah, I know.
I know.
It's that one.
PAUL AINSWORTH: Are you serious?
No, you're winding me up, aren't you?
We're about to step on a little dinghy.
No, that's it.
That's it.
PAUL AINSWORTH: That is unbelievable.
JAMES MARTIN: That'll do, won't it?
PAUL AINSWORTH: It'll do.
- Good morning, Paul.
- Hello.
How are you?
- Good, thank you.
Morning, James.
Nice to see you again.
Welcome aboard the Princess 70 Flybridge.
And please make yourselves at home.
JAMES MARTIN: Thank you very much.
PAUL AINSWORTH: Thank you very much.
JAMES MARTIN: It's going to be a good day, this.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Paul Sinclair is our skipper for the day.
And it's not long before we're heading out of Poole, the largest natural harbor in Europe.
It's not a bad way to begin.
I've had worse days.
JAMES MARTIN: It's not bad, is it?
PAUL AINSWORTH: Not bad.
Look at it.
JAMES MARTIN: It is pretty special.
So a bit of geography.
This is Sandbanks.
This is like a little teardrop-shaped piece of land.
PAUL AINSWORTH: I mean, look at some of them houses, mate.
JAMES MARTIN: And then you've got Brownsea Island there, National Trust.
This is the home of the Boy Scouts.
PAUL AINSWORTH: Yeah.
And this here as well, Brownsea Island, being a Boy Scout.
It's funny you should say that, 'cause I've got you a little present.
- Yeah?
Mate.
[chuckles] See, I used to wear these.
Yeah, yeah, the hat.
Remember that?
It's a blast from the past, isn't it?
PAUL AINSWORTH: That literally is.
Yeah, it is, yeah.
It's looking all right, that.
- Yeah So did you go all the way through?
Oh, yeah, so Beavers, then into Cubs, then into Scouts.
Did you get your cooking badge?
I bet you did, didn't you?
You won every award going.
So you got that, didn't you?
I did.
This arm was looking pretty good.
Yeah, the red triangle of badges all the way down.
Yeah, it was all right.
Like a tattoo on your arm, wasn't it, all these badges everywhere?
Anyway, I'm going to cook for you now.
Yes.
I'm going to use the food from right out here.
I've actually caught some sea bass, beautiful sea bass.
And that's what I'm going to cook for you.
Nice little bit of spice.
Mate, it doesn't get any better, does it?
JAMES MARTIN: Happy with that?
So I'll leave you to do your Titanic moment, all right?
No, I'm going to do me Scouts moment.
We had a special sign, but you wouldn't know.
You didn't get to Scouts.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Oh, dear.
Oh, well, you can earn your washing-up badge in a bit.
But first, I'm going to cook up an exotic fish dish, which seems rather fitting on board a luxury yacht.
Now, while Paul's having a wander around the boat, I wanted to create this amazing Korean dish.
It sounds really weird, but the sauce is really special.
I've got some brilliant paste here.
This is gochujang paste, which is like a fermented soybean paste with a little bit of spice and a bit of chili.
But this is the key to this sauce.
It is absolutely delicious.
So next time you're walking around the supermarket, get some.
It's amazing.
Next up, I'm going to use some brown sugar.
Now, you can use light brown sugar or dark brown sugar.
It's entirely up to you.
It alters the flavor quite substantially.
But also what you need for this is soy and quite a bit of soy, almost a whole bottle of soy like that.
So a little bit of soy, a touch of sesame oil.
Not too much because it can be quite strong.
Meanwhile, I grab my chili, and we can chop up the chili.
Now, the best advice really is once you find some of this paste, have a practice with it and then add the chili at the end possibly.
You can have it as hot and fiery as you want, really.
But other key ingredients into this are ginger.
Now, you can also get a lot of heat from ginger if you leave the skins on.
You do need quite a bit of ginger in this recipe, so grate it all up like that.
And the same for the garlic, really.
You can speed this up.
You can do each individual clove if you want.
But what I tend to do is just cut your garlic like that, use a grater, and do the same thing again.
And like the ginger, you do need quite a bit of garlic with this.
And then into this now I'm going to add two different types of sesame seeds.
I've just got some white sesame seeds.
They're going to go in.
And these, sometimes you call them nigella seeds as well, these dark ones.
I'm going to pop those in as well.
Get that on the heat, and just bring that to the boil.
While that's boiling, roughly chop some mint and coriander.
And that's going to go in as well.
And all we want to do really is cook this sauce for about two or three minutes.
And while that's cooking, we turn our attention to our aubergines.
These aubergines here are the little small aubergines.
And all we want to do with these is just grab a little bit of oil and pop these straight on the barbecue, because these, again, are only going to take three to four minutes to cook.
So while they're cooking, enjoy this wonderful scenery.
It's not bad here, is it?
I could get used to this.
And it's not just the view outside, which is spectacular.
Inside, Paul is seeing how the other half live.
It's certainly luxurious.
But hey, what do you expect from a boat that costs millions of pounds?
[jazz music] ♪ ♪ So these aubergines don't take very long at all.
Now, interestingly, aubergines are classed as hybrid now.
They've had all the bitterness grown out of them over the years.
You used to have to soak aubergines in milk and salt to get rid of the water.
You don't have to do that anymore.
Literally, you can just cook them direct on the grill.
And also, they're brilliant deep-fried.
But deep frying on a yacht is not a good thing.
But I'm going to take this sauce off as well.
And that's it.
That's really the sauce finished, apart from just a little bit of lime.
You just take the zest of a lime.
And we're just going to leave that to one side while I turn my attention to the fish.
Now, I've got some beautiful sea bass over here.
Just look at this.
A gorgeous, gorgeous line-caught bass.
Now, you can tell the difference between a line-caught one and a farmed one purely by size as well as look.
But it's actually a gorgeous bit of fish.
And I'm just going to simply prepare it by quickly just removing the fillet.
All you do is you just pop the knife round by the gills there, pop this through.
And then just carefully, all the way along the back, pop the knife under.
Slide that through, and the fillet comes off like that.
And just remove that little rib cage out, and you've got a gorgeous, nice piece of sea bass.
I'm just going to go wash my hands.
[bright music] Now, I'm actually going to cook this en papillote, which is a style of cooking that I love because there's hardly any washing up, really, but also really simple.
It's a great way of cooking and one that's brilliant for fish, because it doesn't take very long.
And all it is, is making a bag out of tin foil, first of all.
And then you build up the flavors inside the little tin foil.
So a little bit of spring onion.
You've got some of this wonderful little sea bass.
And then I've got some gorgeous clams.
Look at these.
A few mussels.
They're going to go in as well.
It's a magical way of cooking this.
And then we can grab some of this gorgeous little sauce.
Now, we don't want too much because I'm going to put some on afterwards.
We just want a nice little bit of liquor.
Put some lime juice and lime zest.
It's the soy and the sesame and the lime and stuff like that are your seasoning.
No need for salt and pepper for this one.
Some spring onions.
It's a little bit of mint and coriander.
Just a few bits on there.
See, look at that.
Beautiful.
And then we make a little parcel.
Fold it over.
Take your nice bit of fish, lift it on.
Pop it on there.
So this is going to take about four to five minutes to cook.
I'll go get Paul.
[gentle music] Look, so this is the fish.
PAUL AINSWORTH: Oh, look at that.
- Are you ready?
- Is that not the best?
Ooh.
Tell me or tell me not, that's a thing of beauty.
PAUL AINSWORTH: That is a thing of beauty.
Honestly, mate, that is stunning.
And we're going to take our mussels and everything else.
We lift off our fish, look.
And it doesn't matter if it breaks up a little bit.
PAUL AINSWORTH: I should ask you a question.
- What's that?
- Are we actually in Poole?
JAMES MARTIN: We're in Poole.
PAUL AINSWORTH: Not the Maldives.
[laughter] That is such a great way of cooking, isn't it?
Like you say, no pan-- - No pan.
En papillote.
It's brilliant.
You get a nice bit of sauce.
And there's none of that sort of Michelin-- Shut up.
[laughter] Look, spring onions.
Cut them on this bias like that.
Sprinkly, sprinkly over the top.
Sesame, a bit more of this sesame over the top.
And if you wanted to, it depends how fiery you are.
To be honest, let's face it.
It's a bit hot here now, isn't it?
PAUL AINSWORTH: Yeah, it is.
I love how you've put me on the barbecue side.
You're the young one.
Yes.
Mate, honestly, that is fantastic.
JAMES MARTIN: My Korean sea bass with mussels and clams.
Ready?
- Yes.
Come on.
Let me get stuck in.
What, do you want me to leave you to it and I'll just clear off?
- Yeah, yeah, please.
Oh.
JAMES MARTIN: What do you think of this?
Look how beautifully cooked that is.
Keep going.
Sorry, am I massaging your ego?
Yeah, yeah, you like that, do you?
Yeah, go on.
PAUL AINSWORTH: That is amazing.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): So there it is, my spicy Korean sea bass with shellfish.
Perfect for a coastal lunch in the sun.
I'm in sunny Dorset on the south coast.
Earlier, I treated Michelin-star chef Paul Ainsworth to a luxury tour of Poole Harbor.
I've had worse days.
JAMES MARTIN: It's not bad, is it?
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And while on board, I cooked up a rather fitting and tasty seafood lunch.
PAUL AINSWORTH: That is amazing.
I'm not far off eating a whole side of sea bass.
You have actually-- you've nearly eaten a whole one.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And now we're back on dry land, I've got another surprise for Paul.
So I know you like your cheese, Yeah.
But Dorset blue vinny, I've seen it on your restaurant menu.
Yeah, cracking cheese.
Have you ever been to where it's been made?
- Never.
- 'Cause you're about to.
Yes!
JAMES MARTIN: I thought you'd like that.
And meanwhile, I'm going to go find some pigs.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Mangalitsa pigs, to be precise.
But more about those a little later.
First, I've dropped Paul off at Woodbridge Farm, about 30 miles from Poole.
Here, Emily Davis is carrying on a family legacy, producing Dorset blue vinny, a cheese that's both rich in flavor and history.
Plus, it's just won a World Cheese Award.
I think you're going to like this, Paul.
- Emily, how are you?
- Hi, good.
Good to meet you.
It's lovely to meet you.
Welcome to Woodbridge Farm, Paul.
Thank you.
It's stunning, absolutely stunning.
Now, I'm a huge fan of this cheese.
I understand your father resurrected the recipe in the 1980s, I believe.
EMILY: Yep, that's right, Paul.
Yeah, he did.
It had died a death, completely disappeared.
So he thought, that sounds interesting.
There are fantastic stories attached to it about how they used to make the milk and the cheese go blue was from things like dragging the old horse harnesses through the milk to adding slug slime, to storing the farmer's wellies by the vat.
I mean, just brilliant.
Everybody would be pleased to know we don't do any of that yet.
But we do a really good modern interpretation, hopefully.
Well, those stories are amazing, aren't they?
That's what makes its heritage, isn't it?
I'd love you to show me around.
Is that all right?
- Please do.
Come with me.
And I hope you've hidden the slug slime.
- Oh, we have, yeah.
- And the horse harnesses.
All gone.
Come with us.
[guitar melody] ♪ ♪ And here we are, Paul.
Welcome.
PAUL AINSWORTH: Wow.
EMILY: I know.
PAUL AINSWORTH: Honestly, like, right now, my mouth is just watering.
I literally just want to lean in and bite one like an apple.
These are what's known as a truckle?
EMILY: That's right.
Yes, a truckle.
So how many truckles do you produce?
We make about 200 of these a week.
So we've got about up to 1,500 in here, we will have.
But all these cheeses in here that you see are turned every single day.
And it's absolutely vital for the cheese because what it's doing is it's making sure that the moisture is evenly spread the whole time.
PAUL AINSWORTH: So Emily, other than the turning of the cheese, is there anything else that you have to do to them?
Yeah, so once they move from this room, they go up to the next maturing room, which is actually where we spike the cheeses.
And this just encourages a bit of the bluing process.
And then from then on, after a couple of weeks, we then can grade them to make sure at what point of maturity they are at ready to go out to the wholesalers or the retailers.
PAUL AINSWORTH: So from start to finish, how long?
EMILY: So it's an overnight process to initially make it.
And then they'll mature up to 18 weeks.
And they're handmade, so there's always going to be a little bit of a difference between each batch.
I suppose they are.
They are like a living product.
Absolutely.
PAUL AINSWORTH: As much as I'm enjoying this, my mouth's watering.
I am.
And I know you make chutneys here as well.
So can we go taste this, please?
Come and have a cheese and chutney sandwich.
Yes, let's go.
[gentle music] ♪ ♪ I've been so looking forward to this moment.
Pickles, chutneys, really, really good cheese, everything I love about food.
EMILY: It looks great, doesn't it?
PAUL AINSWORTH: It really, really does.
So we've got the salami here with some-- it's made by a local company, The Real Cure.
And it's got our cheese in that salami.
Good?
Yeah, it's incredible.
Incredible.
Oh, we're pretty proud of it.
- I bet you are.
- Yeah.
PAUL AINSWORTH: It's full of flavor.
It's moreish, it's creamy.
It's absolutely delicious.
EMILY: And that's everything that we're hoping to achieve.
We're proud of what Dad did when he resurrected it.
And I guess it's just about trying to carry on with his legacy of being part of this very special product.
PAUL AINSWORTH: It's brilliant.
James, I've got myself a truckle.
I suggest you get yourself one because this is amazing.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): As it happens, Paul, I did get one.
And I've got a very special pork recipe to cook with it.
JAMES WARREN: Now, for this dish, I'm going to take my inspiration from Italy and do like a porchetta.
It's a variant of it, really, a rough variant.
So I'm going to use some of this wonderful Dorset blue vinny.
I've got some apples, I've got a bit of onion.
Fennel seeds is the key to it.
Touch of cinnamon, breadcrumbs, sultanas, some walnuts, some egg, and a nice little bit of parsley.
And what you're doing is creating a nice little stuffing, first of all, for our pork.
So nothing really to chop at the beginning of it.
You can use this grater.
Just use a little box grater and grate the onion.
A little bit of apple.
I love the combination of apples and walnuts in this, really, together with the blue cheese, that classic combination.
So I'm just going to use some flat leaf parsley for this.
You can mix and match here.
If you want anything stronger, you can use things like thyme, sage, rosemary, that kind of stuff.
So just roughly chop it.
And then I've got some walnuts.
We can just break them up, really.
Don't need to chop them.
And then what I like in this is a little bit of fruit.
And I like to use sultanas, really, for this one.
Bit of breadcrumbs like a classic stuffing mix.
Just use a couple of eggs.
But like all stuffings as well, you need a little bit of warmth, a little bit of spice to it as well.
And what I love is a bit of cinnamon.
It works really well with these.
These are fennel seeds.
You can crush these if you wanted to, but they're fine.
A good amount of salt and pepper.
And then mix all this lot together.
If you wanted to, you can put chestnuts in here, particularly for Christmas.
So once you've got it mixed in, leave that to one side because this is the key to it, really, a good joint of pork.
This is a middle joint of pork.
So the first thing we need to do before we do anything is score the skin like that.
So what we're going to do is we're going to open this all out into a flat piece that's twice the size.
So you can imagine this, twice the size, twice the length.
So you can see where it's thick here.
What we need to do is make sure it's all the same level of what we've got here.
So for that, we take a knife, and we cut it this way and fold it that way.
Cut through the loin part of it first and open this out.
And then what we do is you go the other way.
Cut through the meat here, and you cut through here.
And gradually, we start to prise this back.
So you can see what I'm trying to achieve.
I'm trying to achieve all one thickness all the way through.
And we cut, roll it to make it easier.
Careful when you get to this bit.
You can see when you open it all out, almost all one flat layer.
A little bit salt, some black pepper over the top.
We take some of our mixture now, and we spread this all in the center like that.
But don't pile it full of stuffing because, I mean, this is a big portion as it is.
This serves two in my house.
Then we can turn to some of this amazing Dorset blue vinny.
Now to the important bit, which is rolling it all up.
Roll it all over.
Mm.
Like that.
It's a thing of beauty, you see?
Like this.
Twice the size of what it was before.
And now what we need to do is tie it up.
But you must use butcher's twine.
We're going to start off by doing-- basically just tying the long piece up first.
So a little loop in it.
Now, if you're unsure about this, the best way to do this is go back in your car, back to the butcher's, take your string with you, and get him to do it.
[jazz music] Take your time.
Just practice.
That's all it is.
♪ ♪ Now, the cooking of this is crucial.
What you've got to do is you've got to crisp up the fat, first of all.
To do that, you shock it in the oven.
You need the oven at least 220.
So up to 240 it can go.
That's about 450 Fahrenheit.
And what you need to do is cook this for about half an hour.
You need to shock it, first of all.
After half an hour, turn the oven down to about 140-150 and cook it for about an hour and a half.
So in total, two hours.
Now, you can serve this hot, but I've actually made one and had it in the fridge overnight because I think this is really nice cold.
And listen.
[pork crackles] Crispy crackling as well to go with it.
And you carve it.
You can see what I'm on about with that, layers and layers and layers.
That's almost like-- it's like a meat Swiss roll.
Whatever you do, if you're going to do it hot, leave it to rest for at least an hour before you carve it.
Otherwise, you'll never be able to get slices like this out of it.
It'll basically just fall apart.
And we've just got some nice little bit of spiced apple chutney.
But also with this, a few little pickled cucumbers and some nice, peppery fresh watercress.
Just check that out.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): So there you have it, stuffed rolled loin of Dorset pork with delicious Dorset blue cheese.
[gentle music] Today I'm in the beautiful county of Dorset.
Earlier, I sent Paul Ainsworth to a tasting of one of its finest cheeses.
Good?
Yeah, it's incredible.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Meanwhile, I'm on my way to find some of Dorset's tastiest meat.
And this is one that's very close to my heart.
Do you know what?
I get so passionate when it comes to pork.
I really do.
Really, the prized pig, I think for pork, has to be the Mangalitsa pig.
It really does.
It produces some of the finest meat you'll ever taste.
And it's produced right here in a little town called Wareham.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And the man responsible for bringing this meat to the town is James Warren, the owner of the Salt Pig farm shop, a one-stop shop full of all the finest local produce.
JAMES WARREN: James.
Nice to see you.
This is easy to find, right on the main street.
Yeah, absolutely.
Got to bring the farm shop to the town.
JAMES MARTIN: So tell me about how you got started into this because not from a foodie background, really.
No, not particularly, although my parents had a hotel.
But I was working as a shepherd locally, and I just became aware of all the fantastic produce that was being produced in the area.
And it was just ending up in the food chain, and you couldn't get your hands on it locally.
And that just seemed a terrible shame to me.
JAMES MARTIN: Literally, it is local.
I've seen the map there.
JAMES WARREN: Yeah.
I mean, it's all within five miles of here.
Yeah, pretty much five miles, certainly as the crow flies.
JAMES MARTIN: But there must have been one meat that's quite difficult to find really around here.
Yeah, pork of the style that I wanted, i.e outdoor and rare breed, was the thing that I couldn't find enough of.
So I started with just four or five pigs that I bought from the National Trust, actually, Mangalitsas.
And now we've got around 150, 160 at any one time to keep up with demand.
Now, I've spotted them already.
I've got to try some of these pork chops.
So I'll probably have about four or five of them.
Sure, with a nice little bit of fat on them there.
Oh, no, no, 100%.
Yeah.
That's where all the flavor is.
Absolutely.
JAMES WARREN: I always say, if you don't want to eat the fat, that's fine.
But at least cook it with it on.
JAMES MARTIN: Great stuff.
Well, I'm going to take that because I'm going to cook it later.
And I'm going to leave you to lock up because we're going to go visit the farm, are we?
Yes, I'll lock up.
And then we'll jump in the car and go and see some pigs.
I'll go get the car ready.
Love it.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): James really is a man who loves the great outdoors.
He even spent some time in Zimbabwe as a safari guide before returning to the Purbeck region of Dorset.
It's not hard to see why he chose this place.
There's a real mix of agriculture and great seafood.
I mean, you've got the harbor.
I mean, there's such an array of-- JAMES WARREN: Everything from cockles and clams and oysters in the Poole Harbor to the day boat fleet that catch, you know, loads of different inshore fish year-round.
And then we've got the biggest venison population in Europe.
So not only is it beautiful, but it's so abundant with diversity of what's being produced here.
[guitar melody] ♪ ♪ JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And now this area is also home to some of the finest pigs in the world, roaming free in this stunning nature reserve.
JAMES WARREN: Not a bad view, is it?
JAMES WARREN: No.
JAMES MARTIN: What a place.
I've never seen anything like this.
I mean, where are we?
So this is Arne Reserve with the RSPB.
And they were very helpful for the first pigs that we had to get the pigs in to do some clearance work for bracken.
Most of this area around us, if you look behind us down here towards the harbor, is lowland heath.
And that's kind of what they want to reintroduce here.
Now usually, they'd get machines in to take this top layer off, spray the bracken, the gorse, all the other plant life that stops the heather being able to come through.
Whereas that's what the pigs will do, and they'll do it very naturally.
JAMES MARTIN: Yeah.
JAMES WARREN: A little slower than the machines, but the good news is we get some fantastic product from it in the meantime as well.
So tell me about the particular breed, because these are classed as the hairy pigs.
JAMES WARREN: Yeah, this one here is a Berkshire.
But these are the Mangalitsa here.
JAMES MARTIN: Yeah.
Hungarian by breed?
JAMES WARREN: They're Hungarian originally.
They've got a degree of wild boar.
And taking them to market?
I'm sure these are a lot slower to produce.
JAMES WARREN: The Mangalitsa in particular is very slow.
I mean, we keep them over a year.
That could be three, four times a normal pig.
Oh, yeah, absolutely.
Three or four times a commercial pig.
But, of course, they're foraging for some of their diet up here, which saves some feed costs.
But we do management feed them.
Otherwise, they'd probably go wild fairly quickly if we didn't give them something every day.
And what a setting to thrive in as well.
JAMES WARREN: Yeah, exactly, as I think they've got earth on their nose as they should have-- JAMES MARTIN: Yeah.
JAMES WARREN: --and sun on their backs and the occasional bit of rain and wind as well.
But I think it all adds to the flavor.
Whether they enjoy the view as much as I do when I come to feed them, I'm not sure.
JAMES MARTIN: Happy pigs.
Just got to find the rest of them now.
JAMES WARREN: Pigs!
Come on, pigs!
Come on.
JAMES MARTIN: Look at this one.
JAMES WARREN: Come on then.
JAMES MARTIN: I feel like I'm taking my dog for a walk with this one.
JAMES WARREN: Come on then.
JAMES MARTIN: How magical is this?
JAMES WARREN: Come on then.
Come on, then.
[sweeping music] [pigs oinking] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Now, something truly delicious, fresh from the Dorset coast.
Now, this dish is equally as spectacular as the location that we've been in, clam vongole.
It is amazing.
So a pan of water is what you need.
Plenty of water, plenty of salt as well.
The best way to cook vongole and the best way to cook pasta is in salted seawater.
So what you've got to do is replicate it, a handful of sea salt in.
When you think you've got enough, a little bit more in there as well.
You take your spaghetti, a little bit of that, in here.
Get the pan boiling away nicely.
So we get the pasta cooking first.
And then we've got a selection of different ingredients.
I've got some shallot, I've got some garlic.
I prefer to use shallot, really, rather than onion because it's milder.
That's the key to a shallot.
You don't have to cook it for as long and particularly a dish like this, you're not going to cook it for any more than two or three minutes, really, once you've got the clams in there.
The garlic is quite crucial.
So finely chopped or thinly sliced.
Good quality extra virgin olive oil.
We take our garlic and our shallots.
So we cook this for a little bit without color.
You're not browning the garlic at all.
Once you've got that in there, Pinot Grigio, a nice dollop of it in the pan.
And this is our cooking liquor for our clams.
Now, all I've done is just to clean these clams, cold water.
Just keep rinsing them in cold water.
But these are fantastic, these clams.
And unlike a lot of vongole you get in a restaurant, you want plenty of it.
So don't be frightened to use plenty of the clams.
So throw these in, all of them.
Put the lid on.
So just keep your eye on your pasta.
You don't want to overcook this.
It's only going to take about probably 10 minutes to be nice and al dente because the key to this is finishing it off in the sauce.
So while that's happening, we can take a little bit of chili and some parsley.
Now, I love fresh chili right at the last minute.
Keep the seeds on chili.
I've got no idea why people take the seeds out of chili.
I don't know where that came from, probably a TV chef.
A little bit of chili, some finely chopped parsley.
Flat leaf parsley.
It's a classic Italian way of cooking.
You just let everything do their thing.
Touch of lemon zest.
I'm going to use the juice from this as well.
You just get everything ready while your pasta's cooking.
Go back to your clams.
What you can do now is take these out.
So a lot of time with vongole, people would just put the pasta in there.
I think the best way to do it is to take the clams out.
It stops them from cooking because you don't want to overcook these.
And meanwhile, we've got this amazing sort of sauce left in the bottom of your pan.
Put that back in.
And then this is the important bit is you reduce this down.
And you cook this with the pasta.
So when the pasta's about two minutes away from being cooked, the sauce has been reducing down.
And we add the pasta to the sauce.
The whole idea of this is you finish off the cooking of the pasta always, always in the sauce.
And you can use a little bit of this water if needed just to add a touch of water.
And all that sauce is flavor.
You've got all the juices from the clams, everything else.
It's so much better already because it's cooking on all the juice.
All that juice is flavor.
Nice little bit of black pepper.
Don't need any salt in there.
And then we take all these ingredients.
We've got the lemon.
We've got the lemon juice.
We've got the chili.
We've got all the parsley.
Keep mixing.
See, this looks good enough to eat as it is, let alone what you're about to do with this.
Because when you're happy with that, you grab the clams and chuck these in.
Start mixing it all together.
Not forgetting we've got a bit of this juice left over.
That goes in as well.
Don't want to waste anything.
And you mix all that up.
Just look at that.
How fabulous a dish is that?
It's no wonder it's popular the world over, this.
It really is.
And then this is a bit-- well, you're either going to love or hate this being Italian.
You can either put Parmesan on it or not, but it's entirely up to you.
So I'm just going to split the difference, just put a little bit of Parmesan over the top.
And then what I always serve it with is a nice little drizzle of olive oil.
And there you have it.
A classic vongole using Dorset clams.
There aren't many dishes as good as that in the world.
[gentle music] ♪ ♪ JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): I'm in the stunning Poole Harbor in Dorset, where Paul Ainsworth and I have been living the high life.
And now we're about to end our day on one of the harbor's remote beaches, because I've got yet another surprise lined up for Paul.
JAMES MARTIN: You're loving this, aren't you?
I am loving this.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Well, it's about to get even better, Paul, because we're heading to the beautiful beach that today is home to Ritual Feast, an open-air pop-up restaurant started by Michael Utley and Danielle McLaren.
These guys barbecue mouthwatering meat very slowly on bespoke South American-inspired fire pits.
And it smells unbelievable.
JAMES MARTIN: So it's almost the perfect end to the perfect day.
PAUL AINSWORTH: Yeah.
Because around the corner I've got you a table.
PAUL AINSWORTH: What?
That's for me and you?
JAMES MARTIN: For you for the time being.
I'm going to go check out the food.
Like Love Island.
It is not Love Island.
PAUL AINSWORTH: I'll see you over there, sweetie.
JAMES MARTIN: Can't believe you said that.
It's going to be a busy lunch, by the looks of things.
- It is.
- How are you doing?
Hi, I'm Danielle.
Welcome to Ritual Feast.
- How are you doing, boss?
- How are you doing?
Good to see you.
So tell me how this lot started.
I mean, this is-- this is magical.
You like it?
JAMES MARTIN: Because this wasn't your forte, was it?
I mean, you weren't chefs or anything?
- No.
- Not chefs at all.
We were both sort of taking a break from corporate life, I think it's fair to say.
So we just decided to do something different.
This is all right, innit?
It's, yeah, pretty nice.
JAMES MARTIN: It's not bad, is it, really?
And the piece of kit itself, it is really, really warm, actually, innit, really?
This is chicken in the basket, but your style.
MICHAEL: Chicken in a basket.
Yeah, Ritual Feast style.
These have been going for about five hours.
- Five hours?
- Five hours, yeah.
I mean, a lot of people think all of the moisture drips out of the chicken, but they don't.
JAMES MARTIN: Well, they look good, but this looks incredible.
It's like a little cross you put on these.
Do you wire that in or something?
MICHAEL: Yeah, we basically wire the pork belly onto the cross.
It's the traditional kind of Argentinean way of cooking.
You're going to do this somewhere between five and six hours.
You've got that honey and soy on there as well.
So the honey sort of caramelizes.
JAMES MARTIN: That looks amazing.
MICHAEL: Yeah.
So Paul will have that little bit.
All right.
Because he likes to run the marathon.
OK.
I don't, so I'll have that bit.
Excellent.
It's going to pop.
It's going to pop.
- See you later.
Looks amazing.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Right.
Time to go find Paul.
[gentle music] ♪ ♪ All right, mate?
Yeah.
It's a bit different, isn't it?
Yeah.
How are you?
Yeah, I'm really, really good.
What is this?
Is this a love letter?
No, this is the menu first.
JAMES MARTIN: Is it the menu?
Yeah.
JAMES MARTIN: I know what it is.
The pork looks amazing.
Anyway, cheers.
Do you want a glass?
No, I don't want a glass.
This already feels quite-- What do you mean?
PAUL AINSWORTH: Romantic.
The can's going to make you feel more manly.
If the editor dims this down and puts twinkly lights on it and music, I won't be impressed.
♪ ♪ - Hi, guys.
- How are you doing?
You all right?
So here is our pork belly.
JAMES MARTIN: Lovely.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Hopefully, some barbecued meat from a wooden board will help make this feel a bit more like a lads' lunch.
Thank you, ta.
Lovely.
OK, enjoy.
[laughter] That is beautiful.
Absolutely beautiful.
Delicious.
I'm seeing a side to you I've never seen.
What do you mean?
You've brought me to dinner on me own on a beach in this beautiful setting.
We're like a couple of pair of Love Island rejects.
JAMES MARTIN: I know I'm in a pink shirt, but there's no need to be abusive.
[laughter] Oh, chicken.
Look at that.
OK.
Danielle, you just keep bringing great presents.
I aim to please.
Yeah, you do.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): In fact, Paul is enjoying the food so much, he's getting a bit carried away.
You've got beautiful blue eyes.
Your eyes match the sea.
I'm just being honest.
Would you ever do Love Island?
I've got good skin for it.
It's not the skin they're interested about, you know.
It's whether you look good in underpants.
So you talk about Love Island a lot to me.
You're a secret Love Island fan.
I know you are.
I've seen it once for about 10 minutes.
PAUL AINSWORTH: And I bet you were thinking, I can't believe it.
I really like this.
I like chicken.
That's why I'm not going on there.
I'll be out first round here.
PAUL AINSWORTH: Your personality will probably take you to round two.
[laughs] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Thanks for the compliment, Paul.
Just for that, you can help me with my final cook of the day right here on this wonderful beach.
Right, heads or tails?
Oh.
Well, it's actually a euro, so it's actually a dove or a-- PAUL AINSWORTH: I'll go with dove.
Dove.
- You've lost.
You're cooking.
- Excellent.
I'm over here.
So we're going to do a massive mixed grill, all right?
PAUL AINSWORTH: Yeah.
Look at this pork, this amaz-- look at that.
Beautiful.
Now, if I had a six pack, it would look like this.
PAUL AINSWORTH: Yeah, that's a massive if.
Yeah, hold your hands out.
So this is going to go on here.
I want you to cook this.
We're going to crisp that up nicely.
PAUL AINSWORTH: Just the pork?
- Just the pork.
What about the sausages?
Don't worry about that, chief.
We've got-- we've got some black pudding over here.
I'm going to take the chicken.
I'm going to make a little paillard for you.
I'm going to nick some of your salt, all right, mate?
OK.
Happy with that?
Yeah, very happy.
See, when you've got a Michelin-star chef on the beach, you've got to put him to work, you see.
So while he's over there, we're going to make this wonderful little paillard, which is a wonderful sort of thing you can do with chicken.
You can either have it open or closed.
But what you've got to do, first of all, is remove the little fillets.
So just get rid of that.
You can always cook it and use it later.
And then you open this up from the thick end to the thin.
You cut halfway.
PAUL AINSWORTH: Ho-ho-ho.
Look at that.
Seasoning over a log.
That's proper cooking.
JAMES MARTIN: I'll tell you what, they look all right, don't they?
PAUL AINSWORTH: Absolutely beautiful, yeah.
I want more stuff to cook.
Why don't you send some more stuff over?
JAMES MARTIN: It's on its way.
Look, you can have these.
These are merguez.
These are amazing these sausages.
PAUL AINSWORTH: Thank you, chef.
JAMES MARTIN: There you go.
But back onto our little paillard over here.
The great thing about these, you can cook these in just a normal frying pan at home, a little bit of mozzarella, a little bit of bacon, a little bit of serrano ham, a bit of sage, a bit of plum chutney under the grill.
Wonderful like they are.
Just nice and simple.
But I'm just going to season these and create like a little parcel.
And then I've got some apple over here, Cox's apples.
Slice it nice and thin.
Now, you normally think of, obviously, pork and apple, which is fine, a classic combination, of course.
But this, when it cooks down with this other ingredient I'm going to add, just tastes amazing because I'm going to use this.
This is nduja, which is a spicy sausage.
Comes from Calabria.
It's actually really, really soft.
And when it cooks, it all melts down.
There's quite a lot of oil with this.
So again, for a barbecue, you're better off doing it in a pan like this.
Because if you put this on the barbecue, it literally will burn.
Just fold this over like that.
So you're creating these little parcels.
And then what we do is we pass them to chefy.
Ready?
JAMES MARTIN: Yeah, a little bit of oil.
You can actually cook these in the oven as well.
About 20 minutes, something like that.
They'll be fine.
All right.
Happy with those?
PAUL AINSWORTH: Yeah.
JAMES MARTIN: While he's doing that, we'll just give him the rest of it.
Do you want a bit of black pudding?
Yes, please.
JAMES MARTIN: And when you get good black pudding, it looks like this.
It's got bits in it.
It should be nice and chunky like that.
This is chorizo picante.
Picante means spice.
It means a lot of paprika.
When you cook this, there's an awful lot of liquid that comes out of it.
And that liquid is flavor.
So everything's going to go onto our grill.
[meat searing] Right, while he's doing that, we'll then turn our attention to this.
This is a simple little mayonnaise.
And for that, I want some egg yolks, about three egg yolks.
You can do it with whole eggs if you wanted to or a combination of the two.
Touch of mustard, a bit of Dijon mustard.
Usually with mayonnaise, it's Dijon and not English because it's far too strong.
And then always with mayonnaise, it's veg oil.
I've never really done with olive oil.
You whisk this in in a nice, even stream, really, until it starts to thicken up.
Do this slowly at first, and you can add more oil later when it fully starts to emulsify.
So this is the boring bit.
Whilst you're doing the boring bit, look at that.
[meat searing] [playful music] ♪ ♪ JAMES MARTIN: It's actually amazing how much oil just an egg yolk will emulsify.
It'll go whiter and whiter.
I think that looks pretty good to me.
That's exactly how I want it.
Now, just to add to this, we're going to use celeriac.
Now, I love celeriac.
It's brilliant in soups.
A lot of chefs, like him, will salt-bake it, which is brilliant as well.
They make a salt.
Do you do salt crust or you do a salt dough?
Both.
Yeah, the easiest way to do it at home for me would be the dough.
JAMES MARTIN: The dough.
You just mix basically just salt.
Yeah.
A little bit of water, some flour together.
PAUL AINSWORTH: That's it.
JAMES MARTIN: And then you cook it for about an hour.
Absolutely delicious.
Salt-baked is wonderful.
But for this, we thinly slice it.
Paul, check that out.
Hovercraft.
PAUL AINSWORTH: Oh, awesome.
JAMES MARTIN: How are you getting on?
A touch longer, James.
But yeah, we're good.
I'm about a couple of minutes away, so I'm just going to take the apple now and do the same thing.
So nice and thin strips.
Now, just to finish it off, maple syrup.
Nice.
Love this stuff.
Just a little glaze of maple syrup over the top of the pork chop.
Oh.
Now, to finish this off, this little mayonnaise, to turn it into remoulade, you just pop a good amount of grain mustard in there as well.
And you combine that.
PAUL AINSWORTH: James.
What's that?
You ready now?
You put it in too early, you see.
I said to you, wait.
I said, wait, and you went too early.
Now everything's starting to burn.
Now you're panicking.
Stereotypical bloke thing, you started to burn everything.
Everything was perfectly all right.
- Nothing's burning here, chef.
- It is burning.
I can smell it burning.
The only thing that's happening is you're taking far too long over that remoulade.
[laughter] Look at this.
Do you want this?
PAUL AINSWORTH: Look at that.
JAMES MARTIN: So this remoulade is now ready.
Now you can start to finish this off and plate up.
Lovely.
Look at this.
JAMES MARTIN: A bit of black pudding.
Merguez sausages.
Just, this is ridiculous.
Look at it.
Oh my God.
I love it.
That's what you call a meat feast.
That's what you call dinner for two.
PAUL AINSWORTH: If you had a pub, you'd call that a mixed grill.
Now, ideally, I wanted a little bit for my-- Oh, don't worry about that.
That's what it's all about.
OK, there you have it.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Mixed grill with an apple and celeriac remoulade.
Not coleslaw, remoulade.
And while Paul and I head back to the boat, it's time for the Ritual Feast gang to eat.
Cheers, guys.
Enjoy.
Oh, they look tasty.
Is that piece big enough?
You get stuck in, Danielle.
Very nice.
Tastes beautiful.
Mm-mm-mm.
[gentle music] It's not a bad end to the day, though, is it?
What a day it's been.
It's a magical, magical place.
How great is Dorset?
It's just got so much to give.
I've been blown away by the produce.
And I know you love your cheese as well.
I mean, you really enjoyed that.
PAUL AINSWORTH: Yeah, I did.
I mean, Dorset blue vinny, it's an amazing cheese.
JAMES MARTIN: Mangalitsa pig pork chops.
The hairy pig, it's one of the best pieces of pork you'll ever try.
Honestly, this has been like the best boys' adventure ever.
I've had the best day.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Me too, buddy.
Me too.
[theme music] ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪

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